A GOOD CATCH At once delicately textured and unmistakably flavoured, fish is the ultimate fresh ingredient, and a great foil for subtle and innovative flavours. Recipes and food preparation Jacqueline Clarke Photographs Marie-Louise Avery Styling Leonie Highton this is a very good month for fish, particularly salmon, trout and shellfish. Fish is best treated fairly simply, and it is important to match the cooking method to the type, as in the recipes below. A robust fish, such as monkfish, can be roasted in a hot oven and still retain texture and flavour, but tiny queen scallops should be given only the briefest introduction to heat; otherwise, they will be transformed into morsels of rubber. Sweet crab meat takes on a suggestion of Thai cooking when combined with coconut milk and spices in a light mousse, and thin slices of tuna are pan-fried with Parma ham and sage ” assertive flavours to complement a meaty fish. The recipes comprise four first courses and three main courses, Single story home designs but they are flexible dishes for this time of year: all the first courses would work equally well as lunch dishes in their own right, served with whatever salad suits, and the main courses can be scaled down as first courses. Alternatively, a combination of both could create a summer buffet.