Room Decor Tips

Room Decor Tips


When, and not until, the priming is thoroughly dry and hard the next thing to be done is the stopping. This means the filling up of all cracks and other inequalities with hard stopping or putty. Ordinary glazier’s putty is sometimes used for this purpose, but it is not the best material, as it is too soft and oily. A mixture of stiff white lead and putty is better, and if this is too soft and sticky, a little dry whiting may be kneaded with it to give the right consistency. This mixture is forced into the orifices with the putty knife and left as smooth and level with the surrounding surface as possible. When it is thoroughly hard, the whole surface of the door again requires sandpapering. First damp it and then smooth it with a fine grade of waterproof sandpaper. Then sponge the door down with clean water and allow to dry off.

Second Coating

Any of the white-lead paint that was not used for priming may be used for this coat, adding, if too stiff, the oil previously poured off. This second coat and indeed all paint coats should be well brushed out, as thin coats are always better than thick ones. That does not mean that the paint itself must be too thin, but that it should be spread as evenly and as far as it will go. This coat, too, must have ample time to harden before we proceed further. Twenty-four hours is the minimum, and thirty-six would be better.

We have now brought up the burned-off door to the same stage where we left the process of simply smoothing old paint to receive new. The subsequent treatment is now the same in either case.

First Finishing Coat

The further processes will depend upon the kind of finish required, and the number of possible treatments is legion, but if a plain colour scheme with a glossy surface is required, it remains to choose the colour.

It is impossible in the space of one or even a dozen chapters to describe the appropriate colour formulae for all the individual choices of our readers.

That being so, the most practicable course is to visit the paint stores and if possible get the paints mixed to your requirements as to colour and shade.

White lead as the basis should be specified, and the first finishing coat should consist, so far as the medium is concerned, of linseed oil and genuine turpentine in the proportions of two-thirds oil to one-third turpentine by measure.

This coat should be carefully applied, and when dry and hard, must be sandpapered as previously described.

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