Home Bathroom Designs
5 Screw the sections of the frame together. To fix the verticals that butt up against the wall, use either hammer plugs or small wall expansion bolts. Drill straight through the frame and into the wall with a masonry bit. Screw the lower horizontal sections into the floor, but take care not to penetrate deeper than the depth of floorboards -usually 18 mm (’/4 in).
2 Measure and cut the lengths necessary to build the basic frame. Do not assume that the verticals are all the same length: take individual measurements to be sure there will be a tight fit between the bath lip and the shelf. Without a tight fit, splashed water sitting on the shelf may seep between the join and cause rot. Remember that your vertical measurement needs to account for the depth of the shelf.
To give access to the plumb ing, cut an extra vertical and two horizontal sections to support a hatch: The width of the hatch depends on the position of the moulding added later.
As an EXPANSION BOLT is tightened a segmented metal shell expands to grip the hole tightly.
3 Before fixing, check the frame fits around the bath. Note that the timber frame sections that support the access hatch are simply jointed into the main frame (in shallow through-housings) and are skew-nailed together (163). The middle of the lower horizontal cross brace in the hatch should be level with the top of the skirting board you will add later.
4 The final position of the shelf in relation to the frame depends on the amount of overhang you need – to cover the side panel, the decorative architrave moulding you add later, and a little extra depth if you want the shelf to be a feature.
Cut the shelf, mitring the corner at 45°. Mark the line of the frame along the underside of the shelf so that the shelf can be re-positioned correctly once the frame is fitted around the bath.
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