The restaurants leading lights, Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers, have produced a wonderfully colourful, fashionably photographed book of simple and inspirational recipes. Their style of cooking is bourgeois Italian, presented in a clean, modern style which suits the architecture of their Hammersmith restaurant (famously designed by Ruths husband Richard Rogers). The River Cafe Cookbook, by Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers (Ebury Press, £25). The British cheese company Gedi specializes in goats cheeses. Soft Corinna Roubiliac cheeses are stored in olive oil and herbs, an ancient method of preserving food, and have an unusual and deliciously tangy flavour. The balls of cheese can be spread on toast or biscuits, or served as part of a salad. When they are finished, the herb-infused oil can be used as a salad dressing. These, and other Gedi cheeses, are available from Selfridges, Fortnum & Mason, Waitrose and Safeway, good health food shops and specialist cheese shops. Further details from Gedi Enterprises on 0181-449 0695. The price of a 240g jar of the cheeses is about £3.50. Dibbern side plate, price £4.90, from Designers Guild, SW3 (tel: 0171-351 5775); knife by David Mel-lor, price £10.40, from Liberty, W1 (tel: 0171-734 1234). From the salt basins of Aigues-Mortes in southern France comes La Baleine sea salt. DINING LIGHT RECIPES Now produced by Salins du Midi, salt was first extracted there by the Romans in the first century AD for their soldiers salarium.