The hotel and grounds bathe in a mellow, distinctively Italian glow. As you climb the steps of Arzagas vast portico, you feel as if you are entering a private house. The illusion continues with the sofas and heavy lamps of the entrance lobby, where not a trace of modern technology or formal check-in exists. Restored frescoes and carved or painted ceilings adorn several reception rooms and some of the bedrooms; other rooms glory in the rustic simplicity of exposed beams, bare stone walls and boxed casement windows. All rooms have en suite bathrooms and each is individually designed so as not to compromise the buildings original features. Key to the hotels away-from-it-all charm are its wonderful facilities. The Saturnia Spa offers restorative hydrotherapy, Corner summer housex a mineral-rich thermal pool and exclusive spa treatments using 2,000-year-old methods, while the main swimming pool is on a vast, sunny, first-floor stone terrace with splendid views. Eco-walks and tai chi take place daily in the hotels extensive grounds, where there are also special cycle routes and clearings set aside for reading and meditation. The two first-class, 18-hole golf courses have excellent club facilities including a comfortable bar and restaurant. Back inside, guests can sample superb Italian cuisine in the main restaurant, and can even learn how to recreate some of the dishes at the Palazzos special on-site cooking school.